In an attempt to curb the increasing number of Western protesters at the hydroelectric Bakun Dam upriver from Belaga, the government of Sarawak has mandated that all tourists require a permit if travelling from Kapit. These permits are freely and quickly available in Kapit although not Belaga, and are rarely checked. Strangely, the permit is not required if arriving from Bintulu by 4x4 transport. In other words, if you get caught without a permit, feign ignorance and state that you arrived from Bintulu.
By plane
Belaga has a tiny abandoned airstrip a few kilometers downstream from the village.
By ship
Most people arrive in Belaga by boat from Kapit and further downstream, Sibu. Boats leave from Kapit at 9am and cost RM30 5 hours except when the water level is too low and the express boats can't get pass Pelagus rapids. It is a very scenic boat ride, and if you are in need of some fresh air the boat roof is a good place to take in the jungle river banks. Express boat interiors are usually air-conditioned to a point of freezing which makes the ride on the roof much more convenient option. Just remember that the sun in Borneo is fierce even though it's cloudy. Rejang river is an easy ride most of the way and the only notable rapids are those of Pelagus. Just follow the locals, if they stay on the roof you should be safe as well.
Depending on the river level the trip down stream may only take 4 hours RM30 and leaves at 8AMThere is a boat heading to Bakun Dam from Belaga RM10.00, 1 hour and leaves approx 3:30PM
By 4X4
The long, windy and unkept logging road from Bintulu or if you are dropped off at the Bakun Dam turn off on the highway appox 40kms north of Bintalu, there are many 4X4s heading into Belaga. Wave one down - they will take passengers if they have room 4 - 5 hours depending on road conditions, RM50 per person - personal car hire requires min 2pax. This can avoid backtracking by boat to reach Sibu in order to get to the coast. Jeeps normally leave early at 8am, but since they can be commissioned easily, they are flexible. Speak to your guide or one of the shops which advertise land transport.